French Mustard: Dijon, à l’Ancienne and the Flavored Kinds Explained
French mustard is defined by its heat. Where yellow American mustard is mild, sweet and colored with turmeric, French mustard is made from brown seeds and an acid — wine, verjuice or vinegar — and it bites. Dijon is the famous one, but it is a method rather than a place, and beside it sit whole-grain mustards, sweet ones from Bordeaux and Brive, and a whole tradition of flavored mustards from small houses. Here is how to tell them apart, why the heat comes and goes, and how to cook with them.
What makes a mustard “French”
Three things: brown or black mustard seed, which is hotter than the yellow seed used in American mustard; an acidic liquid, traditionally the sour juice of unripe grapes (verjuice) or white wine, now often wine vinegar; and very little else. No sugar, no turmeric, no flour. The result is sharp, savory and pale, from cream to grey-brown, and it is used in France less as a condiment than as an ingredient: the base of a vinaigrette, the binder of a sauce, the coat on a roast.
The main kinds
| Mustard | Texture | Heat | Use it for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dijon | Smooth | High, sharp | Vinaigrettes, sauces, rabbit and chicken à la moutarde, sandwiches |
| À l’ancienne / whole-grain (Meaux) | Coarse, seeds intact | Medium, slow | Sausages, ham, potato salad, cheese boards, glazes |
| Flavored Dijon (herbs, citrus, truffle, honey) | Smooth or seeded | Medium | Roasts, cream sauces, dressings, the cheese course |
| Bordeaux | Smooth, darker | Mild, sweet | Charcuterie, grilled meats |
| Violette de Brive | Smooth, purple | Mild | Duck, boudin, cold meats |
| Moutarde de Bourgogne (IGP) | Smooth | High | The same as Dijon, with a protected origin |
Dijon is a recipe, not an origin
The Dijon style dates from the 1850s, when a mustard-maker in the city replaced vinegar with verjuice and produced a smoother, hotter mustard. The name was never protected, so a “Dijon” mustard can be made anywhere, and most of the seed in French mustard today is grown in Canada. The one protected name is Moutarde de Bourgogne, an IGP that requires seed grown in Burgundy and white wine from the region. For most cooking the distinction does not matter; for a bottle you are giving, it is a nice thing to know.
Why the heat comes and goes
Mustard seed contains a compound that is inert until the seed is crushed and wetted; then an enzyme converts it into the pungent oil that burns the nose. Cold liquid keeps the reaction fierce, which is why traditional makers grind cold and why a hot mustard is a fresh mustard. Heat, on the other hand, destroys the enzyme: a mustard stirred into a sauce at the end stays sharp, one boiled for ten minutes turns mild and slightly bitter. Time does the same job slowly. An opened jar loses its edge over months, which is not spoilage but fading, and is why a French kitchen buys mustard in small jars and often.
How to cook with it
- Vinaigrette. A teaspoon of Dijon, a tablespoon of vinegar or lemon, salt, then three tablespoons of oil whisked in. The mustard emulsifies the dressing so it holds.
- Pan sauce. After searing pork chops or chicken, a spoon of mustard, a splash of wine or stock, a little cream, off the heat. Two minutes.
- The roast. A thin coat of mustard on a chicken or a rack of lamb before it goes in the oven, with breadcrumbs pressed on if you like. Coarse salt and herbs over the top.
- Rabbit à la moutarde. The Burgundian classic: rabbit or chicken browned, then braised with mustard, white wine and crème fraîche.
- The cheese course. Whole-grain or a flavored mustard beside a hard cheese, a saucisson, cornichons and bread.
- Mashed potatoes and gratins. A spoon of Dijon in the potatoes or the cream is the difference between fine and good.
Flavored mustards
Small French houses have always made mustards with something added, and the good ones add it for a reason rather than a novelty. Lemon and thyme make a Dijon that belongs on chicken and in a dressing for bitter leaves; truffle turns a spoonful of mustard into a sauce for steak or a filling for a roast-beef sandwich; honey softens it for ham and children; tarragon is the classic for eggs and fish. The two we carry are from L’Épicurien, a family house near Montpellier: the lemon and thyme, with 5% lemon peel and 3% thyme, and the Périgord truffle, with 1.2% black winter truffle.
Storage
Unopened, a jar of French mustard keeps for a year or two in the cupboard. Once open, refrigerate it, keep the lid tight and use it within a few months while it still has its heat. It does not go bad in any way that would hurt you; it goes flat. A dried, darkened crust on top means it has been open too long or sat with the lid off. See our guide to best-by dates on food.
Questions
Is Dijon mustard French? The style is, and most of it is made in France, but the name is not protected and the seed is mostly Canadian. Moutarde de Bourgogne is the protected one.
What is the difference between Dijon and whole-grain mustard? Grinding. Dijon is ground smooth and is hotter; whole-grain, moutarde à l’ancienne, leaves the seeds whole for texture and a slower, milder heat.
Why is French mustard so hot? Brown seed, cold grinding and no sugar to soften it. American yellow mustard uses mild yellow seed and turmeric.
Can I substitute Dijon for yellow mustard? Yes, with less of it; Dijon is sharper and less sweet. Going the other way, expect a milder, sweeter result and add a little vinegar.
Does mustard go bad? No, but it fades. Refrigerate after opening and replace it when it stops making you blink.
Is French mustard gluten-free? Usually: seed, acid, salt and spice. Check the label on flavored mustards.
More French mustard and pantry essentials, and our guide to the essential French pantry.